Gemstone Directory
I would like to thank my unknown source of this table, I downloaded most of it several years ago
without keeping the source's information. I have added and edited the original, but the bulk was
coppied directly from an unknown source. THANK YOU!
Turquoise is out of alphabetic order and will take you to off this table and to my Turquoise info page.

Agate

Alexandrite

Turquoise 

Amethyst

Aquamarine

Carnelian

Chrysoberyl

Citrine

Diamond

Emeralds

Garnet

Jade

Lapis

Moonstone

Opal

Pearl

Peridot

Rubies

Sapphires

Spinel

Tanzanite

Topaz

Tourmaline

Zircon

 

 

Agate

Colors: Most colors

Refractive Index: 1.54 - 1.55

Durability: Fairly tough, can crack or chip

S.G.: 2.65 - 2.91

Material: Quartz

Treatment: Dyeing

Hardness: 7

Availability: Abundant

Localities: Brazil, Egypt, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Madagascar, Mexico, USA & many more

Price: Low

Common Shapes: Cabochons, beads & cameos

 

Interesting Facts

Said by the ancients to render the wearer invisible, Agate has been admired by humanity for thousands of years. Its beauty and durability have prompted man to use it in both practical and ornamental forms.

 

One of the more outlandish uses is binding an Agate to each horn of your oxen to ensure a good harvest. The danger here is that your appropriately agated beasts of burden may then become invisible and a little hard to find.

 

In 1709 a Brazilian priest planned to use agates as antigravity devices on an air ship he had designed.

 

Agate is believed to cure insomnia, ensure pleasant dreams, protect from danger, promote strength, healing and a bold heart. Wearers become temperate, continent and cautious. Agate is a cooling stone; it reduces fever, quenches thirst, quiets the pulse and heart throbs and ensures good health and a long and prosperous life.

Agate is formed in a unique way and many fossils are actually agatized material that has replaced the original organic substance. For example, petrified wood is fossilized wood that has had its organic matter replaced by agate.

The main conditions necessary for agate formation are the presence of silica from devitrified volcanic ash, water from rainfall or ground sources, manganese, iron and other mineral oxides that form the bands and inclusions.

 

Characteristics

Agate is a fine-grained fibrous variety of Chalcedony Quartz and comes in many different forms ranging from transparent to opaque. Varieties include Blue, Blue Lace, Crazy Lace, Green, Indian, Moss, Tree, and Wood. Most popular are: Blue lace agate which has swirly white bands in a blue background; moss agate is so named for its moss-like pattern; fire agate is a brown-bodied stone containing yellow, green, and orange spots, with an iridescent shimmer like opal.

 

Evaluation

As there are so many varieties of agate, it is largely up to the buyer to determine its value. Most agate is in the low price range but some picture stones, carvings and unique pieces may command higher prices. The popularity of fire agate has increased in recent years, as has its price.

Ocean Jasper®
New Rock Discovery!

New discoveries brought to market are usually new deposits of an already known material. It is rare indeed that a really new material is found. Ocean Jasper fits the description of a truly new jasper.

Rhyolite is an igneous rock, rich in silica. As it cools, sometimes the silica starts to precipitate out of the magma, forming little spherical balls. This type of formation is easily recognizable in the aforementioned jaspers. If these balls or "globs" of silica-rich magma are allowed to grow larger before the whole mass becomes solid, they can crack and shrink forming what later may become Thundereggs.

Ocean Jasper has a typical rhyolite formation except that the entire mass has somehow been converted to pure silica (agate, jasper, quartz). The descriptions "silicated rhyolite", petrified rhyolite, or agatized rhyolite are non-sensical but take on a generally understandable meaning when viewing this rock. To my knowledge, there has never been a material like this available before.

The Name -- Ocean Jasper® The material is characterized as an orbicular jasper. That is because whenever a rhyolite has been found with enough silica in it to be polished, it has been sold as a jasper. Thus the rhyolite patterns have been associated with the word "jasper".

Ocean Jasper is an agate by the standard definition (agate being translucent and jasper being opaque). Ocean Jasper is rarely opaque. It was decided to call the material a jasper because rhyolitic patterns have been associated with the jasper category in the past and because "jasper" is listed as the mineral resource in the mining claims owned by Madagascar Minerals.

The word "Ocean" comes mainly from the location at the edge of the sea, along the northwest coast of Madagascar where the deposit was found. The forms in the rock itself are also suggestive of the bubbling surf of the sea.

 

 

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Alexandrite

Colors: Green & violet red color change

Refractive Index: 1.74 - 1.76

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.5 - 3.8

Material:Chrysoberyl

Treatment: None

Hardness: 8.5

Availability: Very rare

Localities: Brazil, Sri Lanka & Russia

Price: Low/moderate to very expensive

Common Shapes: Ovals, rounds & cushions

 

Interesting Facts

Alexandrite is one of the world’s most exotic and rare gemstones. By day, it resembles the “green fire” of emeralds, and by night, it takes on the glowing red luster of rubies. Alexandrite was first discovered around 1830 on the birthday of Czar Alexander of Russia, which it was named after. It is truly a gem suited for a Czar, as it contains the two royal colors of Russia, red and green.

 

The world’s major source of alexandrite is in the state of Minas Gerias, Brazil. In 1987, at the Lavra de Hematita mine, the world’s largest deposit of alexandrite was found. Russia was once one of the major sources of alexandrite; however, today, the Russian deposits are nearly depleted due to heavy mining. In 1993, another source of this extraordinary gemstone was found near the Tanzania-Mozambique border.

 

Characteristics

 

Color change is not unique to only alexandrite; however, the extremity of the color change in this gemstone surpasses all others. When alexandrite is viewed under daylight or fluorescent light, its color is that of medium to bluish green; however, when it is observed under incandescent light, its color is that of violet red. Alexandrite is quite tough. Its hardness is only transcended by those ofcorundum-based gemstones, such as rubies, sapphires and of course diamonds. Alexandrite can also occur in a cat’s-eye form, but it is exceptionally rare. In its finest quality, the gemstone should be semi-transparent with a sharp exhibition of the white eye.

 

Evaluation

The degree of color change is the first and most important consideration when evaluating the value of alexandrines. Low quality stones will present a less dramatic change of color, partially retaining some of the green color or appearing brown under incandescent light. The evaluation of alexandrite should be performed in a dark room under a single light source (i.e. a candle or a light bulb).

 


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Amethyst

Colors: Pale to dark violet

Refractive Index: 1.54 - 1.55

Durability: Fairly tough

S.G.: 2.65 - 2.91

Material: Quartz

Treatment: Heating

Hardness: 7

Availability: Abundant in many sizes

Localities: Brazil, India,Australia, Zambia, Uruguay & many more

Price: Low

Common Shapes: Everything is possible

 

Interesting Facts

 

Amethyst is one of the most common gemstones available and has been popular since Pre-Roman times. The wine-loving Greeks believed that amethyst prevented intoxication while medieval European soldiers wore amethyst amulets as protection in battle.

Amethyst is actually a form of Quartz – one of the most common substances on earth. Tiny amounts of iron and aluminum turn ordinary clear quartz into amethyst.

All forms of quartz (including amethyst) are piezoelectric, making for important applications in electronics. Tourmaline is the only other gemstone that possesses this property.

 

The term "Siberian" amethyst refers to a high grade of stone that is no longer commercially produced. Most of the high-grade amethyst mined today is in Uruguay, southern Brazil and Africa.

 

Characteristics

Amethyst ranges from pale to dark violet. The finest qualities of amethyst are a medium dark violet with a strong secondary red color. Darker shades of amethyst may display slight color fluctuations under different light sources.

 

Amethyst of all qualities is available in all sizes and shapes. Light amethyst will be very low in per carat prices while even the finest qualities are still very reasonably priced. Darker amethyst of any size will have color zoning. This may not be visible without extensive examination. Often the zoning consists of areas of red violet and areas of blue violet, this combination can enrich the appearance of the stone. However, sometimes the zoning is easily visible and detracts from the beauty of the stone. If the zoning is unsightly the value is lessened.

 

Evaluation

Amethyst is the most expensive variety of quartz. Uniformity of color and intense, deep color commands the highest price. Any color zoning or inclusions diminish the price. The highest grade will flash red and pink throughout the gem.

 


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Aquamarine

Colors:Blue

Refractive Index: 1.56 - 1.59

Durability: Slightly fragile to tough

S.G.: 2.67 - 2.84

Material: Beryl

Treatment: Heating

Hardness: 7.5 – 8

Availability: A variety of sizes

Localities: Brazil, Nigeria & Madagascar

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Emerald cuts, ovals & cushions

Interesting Facts

 

For many centuries, oceanic energy was believed to be contained within the delicate semblance of aquamarines. When amulets made of this precious gem were worn, sailors believed that unmatched bravery would be instilled into their souls, giving them the power to overcome even the most powerful storm.

Brazil was previously the world’s major supplier of aquamarines; however, today, African nations, such as Nigeria and Madagascar, provide a greater supply of this gemstone.

 

Characteristics

 

Aquamarines are often eye-clean, and any inclusions within this blue gemstone can easily be seen. A variety of sizes are readily available, and as the size increases, the color of aquamarines tends to intensify.

 

Evaluation

The intensity of color and the clarity of the stone are the most important criteria when evaluating this captivating blue stone. Deep blue aquamarines are rare and command higher prices in the world’s gemstone markets.


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Carnelian

Colors: Orange, red, brown

Refractive Index: 1.54 - 1.55

Durability: Fairly tough

S.G.: 2.65 - 2.91

Material: Quartz. Silicon Dioxide with Iron impurities

Treatment: Heating, dyeing

Hardness: 6.5 - 7

Availability: Abundant in many sizes

Localities: Brazil, India, Japan, Uruguay, USA & many more

Price: Low

Common Shapes: Beads, cabochons & cameos

Interesting Facts

Fit for a queen. An ancient Sumerian queen at that! Carnelian has been an important gem in nearly every great civilization the world has ever seen. From the royalty of Ur – the Mesopotamian capital of pre-biblical times, to Napoleon and Tibetan Buddhists, Carnelian has been revered for its healing, spiritual and creative qualities.

Also known as Sadoine or Mecca Stone and sometimes spelt Cornelian, the name Carnelian is derived from Carne, the Latin for flesh, due to the stone’s coloring.

A deeply religious stone, Carnelian was used by the Egyptian goddess Isis to protect the dead on their journey through the afterlife; it is the symbol of the Apostle Philip; was one of the stones on Aaron’s breast plate of judgment (Exodus: xxviii, 15-30); and Muhammad’s seal was an engraved Carnelian set in a silver ring. To this day Buddhists in China, India and Tibet believe in the protective powers of Carnelian and often follow the Egyptian practice of setting the stone with turquoise and lapis lazuli for enhanced power.

 

Carnelian is recommended for those with bad memories, creative blocks, befuddled minds, weak voices and a lack of courage. It is said to be beneficial in treating impotence, infertility, insomnia, menstrual cramps, neuralgia, rheumatism, asthma, bad blood,lethargy, digestive problems, and skin conditions like acne and psoriasis in both humans and animals. Carnelian also helps hotheaded people overcome anger and establish self-control, and it even protects the wearer from envy and falling objects.

Carnelian is the national gemstone for Norway and Sweden.

Characteristics

 

Carnelian is a translucent orange to red variety of chalcedony. The red tints are caused by iron oxide impurities. It is most commonly made into beads, cabochons, and carvings.

 

Evaluation

As carnelian is fairly common, it is an inexpensive gem. The best carnelian is translucent. Some carnelian will be dyed. Carnelian is often carved and the quality of carving is a key issue in determining price.

 

 


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Chrysoberyl

Colors: Yellow, yellowish green, green, brown, violetish red & greenish-blue color change

Refractive Index: 1.74 - 1.76

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.5 - 3.8

Material: Beryllium Aluminum Oxide

Treatment: None known

Hardness: 8.5

Availability: Alexandrite & cat’s eye very rare. Yellows & greens available

Localities: Brazil, Burma, India, Sri Lanka, Russia, Ural Mountains & Zimbabwe

Price: Low/moderate to very expensive

Common Shapes: Ovals, rounds & cushions

 

Interesting Facts

Encompassing such unusual features as color-change and chatoyancy, the chrysoberyl family is an enigmatic category of gemstones ranging from very inexpensive to top-drawer prices.

There are three principal varieties of chrysoberyl:

Alexandrite and cymophane (cat’s eye) are well known and among the most expensive of all gemstones. Ordinary faceted chrysoberyl is equally rare and beautiful, yet is one of the least expensive stones. All varieties are exceptionally tough, producing some extremely durable gems.

The name chrysoberyl is derived from the Greek for golden (chryso) and green gemstone (beryl). The color ranges from yellow to green to brown. When cut, ordinary chrysoberyl is an extremely brilliant stone, ideal for everyday wear and it is anticipated that it will be one of the next “new” products to become fashionable in the jewelry industry in the near future.

Chrysoberyl is said to assist in striving for excellence, bring peace of mind and increase self-confidence. It also promotes kindness, generosity, benevolence, hope, optimism, renewal, new beginnings, compassion and forgiveness. This stone expresses springtime, youth and innocence.

Chrysoberyl is said to enhance the healing properties of other stones, and to treat disorders of the pancreas, liver and kidneys.

 

Characterisitics

 

Ordinary transparent chrysoberyl is most often yellow, yellowish green, or brown in color. The color in yellow chrysoberyl is due to iron (Fe+3) impurities. When well cut, it produces bright, durable gems that, while not often seen in jewelry, are attractive and relatively affordable.

 

Cat’s-eye chrysoberyl is a translucent gem ranging in color from a honey yellow or honey brown to yellowish green to an apple green. It is known for its reflected light effect called “chatoyancy.” This is achieved by cutting stones that have very small, parallel “silk” inclusions into cabochons (dome shapes, not faceted). As the gem is rotated, it exhibits a distinct, silvery white line across its dome that seems to open and close like a cat’s eye.

 

 

Evaluation

The most desired stones are brilliant yellows, greens and occasionally oranges. The browner a chrysoberyl is, the less valuable.

Faceted stones over 10 carats are rare, over 20 carats extremely hard to obtain, and clean stones over 30 carats are museum pieces.

 

Fine cat's-eyes may be yellow, yellowish green, or golden brown. In the finest qualities, the gems will be semi-transparent and they will exhibit a sharp white eye. As you turn the stone around, the eye will move. The best cat's-eyes also exhibit a "milk and honey effect," when the stone is rotated, one side of the stone appears transparent, as the other side takes on a creamy appearance. In large cat's-eyes, the milk and honey effect is an important consideration in valuing the stone. Cat's-eyes are always cut into cabochons.

 

Sri Lanka and Brazil produce the most chrysoberyl cat's-eyes. This stone is an excellent choice for men. It has a masculine appeal and it is very durable. A fine quality stone will be in the expensive range.

 

 


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Citrine

Colors: Yellow, orange, red

Refractive Index: 1.54 - 1.55

Durability: Fairly tough

S.G.: 2.65 - 2.91

Material: Quartz.

Treatment: Presume heating

Hardness: 7

Availability: Abundant in many sizes

Localities: Brazil

Price: Low

Common Shapes: Everything is possible

 

Interesting Facts

One of the most affordable gemstones on the market, citrine is a golden yellow form of quartz which takes its name from "citron," the French for lemon.

 

In former times citrine was used as a protective talisman against the plague, bad skin and evil thoughts, and as a charm against snakebites and other venomous reptiles. It is also believed to symbolize happiness, aid digestion, remove toxins from the body, and be useful in the treatment of depression, constipation and diabetes.

 

Citrine is one of the accepted birthstones for November, as well as the anniversary gemstone for the 13th year of marriage. It is found mainly in Brazil.

 

Characteristics

Citrine does appear naturally but most commercial citrine is the result of heating amethyst. Colors range from pale yellow to yellowish-brown and “Madeira” red, after the color of the wine. Traditionally the Madeira shades were valued higher but these days many people prefer the bright lemony shades that mix better with pastel colors.

Since most citrine starts out as amethyst that is heated to turn its color to gold, citrine jewelry should be kept away from prolonged exposure to strong light or heat. With this precaution, citrine jewelry will last for many generations.

 

Evaluation

Citrine is readily available, very affordable in large sizes and stands up well to daily wear. Citrine can be easily confused with topaz and has even been called “topaz quartz.” This is incorrect and should be watched out for.

 

 

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Diamond

Colors: Clear, yellow, brown, pink, blue, green, lavender, orange & red

Refractive Index:\2.42

Durability: Tough but has perfect cleavage, protect from blows

S.G.:3.52

Material: Carbon

Treatment: None common. Laser drilling and filling (fracture filling), irradiation and heating to produce fancy colors

Hardness: 10

Availability: Strong supply in colorless to tinted yellow in stones up to five carats

Localities: Angola, Australia, Botswana, Canada, China, Congo, Namibia, South Africa, Russia & Zaire

Price: Expensive

Common Shapes: Round, marquise, pear, oval, heart,emerald,radiant,princess,trilliant & more

Interesting Facts

The hardest, rarest, densest natural substance known to man, diamonds have been a source of fascination (and misinformation) since 800 BC when they were first presented to royalty in India. In those days the Indians believed that diamonds were created when lightning struck rock and the sub-continent was the only producer of diamonds for an astounding 2,500 years.

 

As bewitching as diamonds are they have produced more than their fair share of myths over the centuries. They’ve been attributed with increasing potency,preventing lechery, driving away nightmares, counteracting poison, warding off evil, protection from wild beasts, healing sickness and (naturally) attracting good fortune. There’s also the lie detector myth: that diamonds will darken in the presence of a guilty person and brighten in the company of an innocent one; and the magical reproduction legend: that diamonds sprinkled with morning dew and left in the dark can reproduce offspring! If only!

 

Despite these fanciful ideas some of the amazingly real attributes of diamonds include: their age – the first diamond deposits were brought to the surface of the earth approximately 2.5 billion years ago while the most recent deposits are roughly 50 million years old; their hardness – diamonds are so hard they can only be polished by other diamonds; rarity – more than 250 tons of ore need to be blasted, crushed and processed to yield one carat of rough diamond and of that rough, only 20% is suitable for gem cutting; density – diamond is so dense that it actually slows down light to less than half its normal speed - 80,000 miles per second;

fluorescence – if you’re in a nightclub and someone’s ears or fingers start to glow then diamonds are most likely the culprit, 30-40% of diamonds glow blue when exposed to ultraviolet light and some will even glow green, yellow, white or (extremely rare) red.

While Africa is known as the Diamond continent, it is actually in Australia that the largest reserves are to be found – including the very rare and highly valued pink and red fancy colored diamonds.

Diamonds weren’t cut until the 14th century and it wasn’t until 1725 that deposits were discovered in Brazil and 1866 until South Africa’s substantial storehouse was unearthed.

 

Characteristics

Diamonds are made of pure carbon atoms that exist deep in the ground, exposed to intense heat and pressure over billions of years. Over time, this pressure builds up and forces the diamonds and rocks up toward the surface in a volcanic-like explosion. The explosion creates a very deep, wide hole called a " kimberlite pipe"into which most of the diamonds settle. These “pipes” resemble gigantic carrots encrusted with diamonds. It can take years to fully excavate an entire pipe.

Diamonds also make it to the surface through wind and water erosion, often in coastal areas scattered around the world.

While diamonds exist in a broad color range, they all posses the following features: high refraction, high dispersion or “fire”, very low reactivity to chemicals, and extreme hardness.

If diamonds are so hard, how then (you might well ask), are they cut?

The crystalline formation of a diamond gives it four points of cleavage. A sharp, accurate blow at one of these points will split the diamond. This is (obviously) a very skilled job and while it takes years of training the tools of the trade remain a simple blade and hammer. This is actually a growing industry with Israel and India recently emerging as new centers of skilled diamond cutters.

After cleaving the diamond is shaped. Today this can be done by computerized machinery but more often is still done by hand and typically involves four specialists: The Blocker: who cuts out the rough shape of a diamond; The Top Maker Brilliandeer: who cuts the table and the facets above the girdle; The Bottom Maker Brilliandeer: who cuts the pavilion under the girdle; and the Girdler: who cuts the girdle and the facets around it.

Finally the diamond is polished with fine diamond abrasives creating the stone's many angled planes, or facets. Each facet must be in perfect geometric proportion to every other in order to provide maximum reflection. Only when all these stages have been done is the diamond ready to be set and presented to the buying public.

Diamonds have a high refractive index and dispersion. This is what gives diamonds the brilliance and ‘fire’ we know. In fact most diamonds are not colorless, but are slightly to noticeably yellow. Intense, attractive colors like yellow, pink, blue, green and rarely red are known as “fancy” colors.

 

Evaluation

Diamonds are easier to shop for than other gemstones because they have an accepted grading system that is universal. The most highly valued diamonds are the etremely rare bright red, which have sold for up to $1,000,000 per carat.

A diamond’s value depends on the four "C's": clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Color is graded from D (clear) to Z (yellow), while clarity is rated from IF (internally flawless – very rare), through VVS (very minute flaws), VS (very small flaws), SI (small flaws), to I (significant flaws).

Diamonds should be faceted so that the maximum amount of light is reflected back through the top of the stone. A poorly cut diamond will appear dull and lifeless. The round brilliant is the brightest cut. While oval, pear and marquise cuts appear larger than rounds they are not as brilliant.

 


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Emeralds

Colors: Green

Refractive Index: 1.56 - 1.59

Durability: Slightly fragile to tough

S.G.: 2.67 - 2.84

Material: Beryl

Treatment: Assume oiled

Hardness: 7.5 – 8

Availability: A variety of sizes

Localities: Columbia, Brazil & Zambia

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Emerald cuts, ovals & cushions

 

Interesting Facts

 

The mining of emeralds has been dated back to more than 3,000 years ago, during the time of the Ancient Egyptian Empire. The “green fire” was so mesmerizing that the Spanish Conquistadors went on a bloody campaign to find the location of the emerald mines in South America. In 1557, the campaign finally ended with the discovery of the spectacular Muzo and Chivor mines in present day Columbia.

 

Brazil and Zambia produce large quantities of fine emeralds; however, many still consider Colombian emeralds to be of highest quality. Very fine emeralds, though in small quantity, are also produced in Pakistan and Zimbabwe. Emeralds of Zimbabwean origin are sometimes called “Sandawana” emeralds, which refer to the region where the gemstones are mined.

 

 

Characteristics

 

Emeralds contain beryl as the base mineral, while the presence of chromium and vanadium gives this gemstone the “green fire”. Colombian emeralds are known for their vivid green color, while Brazilian emeralds are known for their variety of color, ranging from light green to fine medium dark green.

 

It is quite rare to find emeralds of fine quality over one carat in size, for large emeralds sometimes contain eye-visible inclusions, known as “jardin” or the “garden”.

With the hardness close to 8 on the Moh’s scale, emeralds are quite durable. However, ultrasonic and steam cleaning could damage the stone, causing fractures.

Therefore, professional jewelers should only clean emeralds.

 

Evaluation

 

Clarity and transparency are the most important characteristics when evaluating the value of emeralds. When evaluating from a face up position, very fine quality emeralds should enable the viewer to see the back facet. The brightness of the gemstone, which is determined by the cutting and the number of inclusions, is also an important evaluation factor. Intense medium green emeralds command the highest value. The purity of the green color is crucial to the value and the beauty of the stone, with blue or yellow overtones diminishing its value.

 


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Garnet

Colors: All but Blue

Refractive Index: 1.72 – 1.94

Durability: Slightly fragile

S.G.: 3.40 – 4.30

Material: Various

Treatment: None

Hardness: 6.5 – 7.5

Availability: Varies with type

Localities: Kenya, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Brazil, India & Arizona (USA)

Price: Low to expensive

Common Shapes: Ovals, round, cushion & fancy shapes

Interesting Facts

 

The history of garnet goes back as far as the Bronze Age (more than 5,100 years ago), where this gemstone was very popular amongst craftsmen and artisans. According to Christian and Jewish mythologies, when God’s wrath clouded the earth with thunderous storms and endless rain during the Great Flood, a radiant red garnet guided the way for Noah, ultimately leading his ark to salvation.

Malaia Garnet,Mandarin Garnet,Mozambique Garnet,Rhodolite Garnet, Spessartite Garnet,Tangerine Garnet, Tsavorite Pyrope Garnet, Demantoid Garnet, Mali Garnet, Color Change Garnet.

Unlike other gemstones, garnets are believed to contain both protective and destructive rudiments. The crusaders engraved garnets into their body armors, believing that the protective power of the stones would lead them to safety. On the other hand, some Asian cultures added this gemstone to bullets, believing that garnet’s destructive power would greatly amplify the enormity of a wound.

 

The name “garnet” is believed to have derived from a fruit called “pomegranate”, which contains reddish color seeds, similar to garnet in color.

 

Characteristics

 

Garnets are in actuality a group of related minerals, containing cubic crystalline structure with slight variations in their chemical compositions. In all, there are 7 major

types of garnets, which include Almandine, Pyrope, Spessartine, Grossular, Andradite, Rhodolite and Malaia.

Almandine Also known as “almandite”, almandine garnets are the most common variety. As a result, many have associated its fine red wine color (violet red to brownish red) as

the “garnet color”. The size of almandine garnet varies from small to large. Star almandine garnet can occasionally be found with a rare four-rayed star. Most of the finest almandine garnets today are mined in India and Brazil.

 

Pyrope - Pyrope garnets are another garnet type which are dark red in color. Most of these stones available today are mined in Arizona, and are often called “anthill garnets”,

as they are often found in small pebbles close to anthills.

 

 

Spessartine -Spessartine garnets, also known as spessartite, are the orange to red orange variety, often referred to as “root beer” colored garnets. Its name is derived from

Spessart, Germany, where it was discovered. Today, Brazil, Madagascar and Sri Lanka are the primary locations where this orange variety of garnet is mined.

 

Grossular -Unlike other garnet varieties, grossular garnets appear in many colors, extending from colorless, yellow, orange, green to exceptional pink. The most sought after

color of grossular garnets is the medium dark green variety, known as tsavorite, which is named after Tsavo National Park on the border of Tanzania and Kenya where it was discovered. The color of tsavorite ranges form light green to very dark green. The finest stones are eye clean with an intense medium green color.

 

Andradite –Andradite garnets are undoubtedly one of the most rare gemstones available today. The intense medium green variety, known as demantoid, is quite spectacular to observe. Having the highest refractive index of all garnets, dematoid’s brilliance is second to none.

 

The finest stones will contain some inclusions, called “horse tail” inclusions, which are fibrous strands of byssolite.

 

Small amounts of demantoid garnets were mined in Russia during the 19th century. However, most of the stones today are found in antique jewelries, as the mine has been long depleted.

 

Other color varieties of andradite garnets do exist, however their beauty is incomparable to the stunning brilliance of demantoids.

 

 

Rhodolite - Many have considered rhodolite to be the “queen of garnets”. This is due to its delicate pink to violet red color, which is similar to that of the rhododendron flower (a

common symbol of feminine beauty). Chemically, this garnet’s composition is a blend of almandine and pyrope.

Rhodolites of most spectacular pink are mined in Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Zimbabwe.

Malaia - Malaia garnets, mined only in Tanzania, have been considered the “outcast” for many years (malaia means “outcast” in Swahili). It was not until 1970’s that its beauty

was truly appreciated by the gemstone world. Malaia garnets are available in numerous shades of orange, ranging from soft peach to intense reddish orange.

Similar to rhodolite, malaia garnets’ chemical composition is a mixture between many general types of garnet, including grossular, spessartine, almandine and pyrope.

 

 

Evaluation

 

When evaluating the value of garnets, color is the most important characteristic. The color must be intense and uniform with a tone that is not too light or too dark. Fine garnets should be eye clean with minimal inclusions under magnification. Size is also a very critical determinant of the stone’s value. For fine garnets of a rare color, the value of the gemstone will increase tremendously as the size increases.

 

 

 

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Jade

Colors: White, green, yellow, red, orange, lavender, black & brown

Refractive Index: l.66 - l.68

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.30 – 3.38

Material: Sodium aluminum silicate

Treatment: Dyeing

Hardness: 6.5 – 7

Availability: Some colors meet demand; others are very rare

Localities: Myanmar (Burma)

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Cabochons in oval, round, navette, etc. Some carved

 

Interesting Facts

 

The "stone of the loins" is how the Spanish refer to jade – "piedras de ijada" – and this is where the English word derives from. The term jade actually refers to two distinct types of stone that closely resemble one another – the more common nephrite and the more expensive jadeite.

 

Long associated with the Chinese culture, jade was actually used by the Central American Mayan civilization hundreds of years before it attained a royal position in the Middle Kingdom. The Mayans mined jadeite in Guatemala making it into weapons and tools.

 

The Chinese cult of jade worship began in the Neolithic era when nephrite from the Kunlun Mountains was used in religious ceremonies, agriculture and war. The “Stone of Heaven” became so influential with the Chinese emperors that Confucius even wrote that men should aspire to its qualities of benevolence, intelligence, righteousness, humility, resonance, loyalty, faith, virtue and truth.

 

Jade is tougher than granite and more difficult to carve than solid steel. When diamonds were first introduced to China sometime between 1005 and 221 BC, they were originally more highly valued as jade carving tools than as gems.

 

Although jade has long been associated with the Chinese culture it wasn’t until l784 that Burmese jadeite found its way there and superseded the local nephrite as the imperial stone.

 

The New Zealand Maoris also used nephrite weapons. The fibrous structure of nephrite is very densely packed making it the "super skull crusher" gemstone. In spite of its low hardness, it is considered to be the toughest gem material.

 

Jade is believed to bring good luck, health and fortune, assist during childbirth and protect infants from disease. Throughout Asia millions wear jade amulets believing that they give the owner power, knowledge, pure thoughts, long life and immortality.

 

 

Characteristics

There are two distinct types of jade – jadeite and nephrite. Nephrite is found in scattered areas around the globe and appears in a wide variety of colors. Jadeite predominantly comes from Burma and while it is available in gray, yellow, pink, blue, lavender, red, white, brown and black, it is most popular in the classic green that most people associate with the stone.

 

Evaluation

Intensity of color and transparency are the most important factors in judging quality. While jade is never fully transparent, the closer it gets to transparency, the higher it is valued. The most highly valued colors are the very rare “Imperial” green and apple green. Lavender jade is also very rare and attains high prices. A green swirl of jade in an otherwise white stone is known in Chinese as “moss in snow” and fetches princely sums.

 

Jadeite must be examined with a microscope to see if it has any value-reducing internal fractures. Quality of carving is also an important value factor.

 

Frequently jadeite is dyed green or lavender. Most dyed jadeite does not look quite right. Jade is often sold by the piece rather than by carat weight.

 

 


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Lapis Lazuli

Colors: Shades of blue

Refractive Index: l.50

Durability: Fairly tough

S.G.: 2.70 - 2.90

Material: Mainly lazurite with traces of hauynite, sodalite, noselite, calcite & particularly pyrite.

Treatment: Dyeing is common

Hardness: 5 - 6

Availability: Supply meets demand

Localities: Afghanistan & Chile

Price: Low to moderate

Common Shapes: Cabochons of all shapes, beads & carvings

 

 

Interesting Facts

 

Mined in Afghanistan for over 7,000 years, the “Armenian Stone” is an enduring rock - and yes it is a rock - unlike other gems it is a composite of several materials

with sparkling flecks of pyrite, or fool’s gold, adding to its mystical allure.

 

Attributed with great healing, purifying and curative properties, Lapis Lazuli allegedly points the way to enlightenment, and aids in the opening of the Third Eye.

Popular with ancient alchemists (who knew it as sapphirus), it was used in medicine, cosmetics and paintings. It was also believed to confer ability, success, divine

favor, ancient wisdom and cure sore throats. No wonder it was as valuable as gold!

 

The ancient city of Ur had a thriving trade in lapis as early as the fourth millennium BC and it appears in various passages from the Book of the Dead as an

inscription stone. It was one of the stones in the biblical 'Breastplate of Judgment' of Aaron (Exodus: xxviii, 15-30). But the Romans (typically) believed it to be a

powerful aphrodisiac. In the Middle Ages, it was thought to keep the limbs healthy and free the soul from error, envy and fear.

 

When lapis was first introduced to Europe, it was called ultramarinum, meaning beyond the sea. Ground lapis mixed with oil was the secret of the blue in ultramarine,

the pigment which painters used to paint the sea and the sky until the nineteenth century.

 

Characteristics

Among gemstones, lapis lazuli is the only “rock” - composed of several minerals rather than a single one. The characteristic blue comes from sodalite minerals, with

any white coming from calcite, and its sparkling gold flecks from pyrite. All lapis lazuli is opaque.

 

Lapis Lazuli is the second most popular stone for men’s jewelry, second only to black onyx, whereas in women’s jewelry it most commonly appears as beads or

earrings.

 

 

Evaluation

 

The finest quality is a dark, intense blue with no visible calcite and a mere sprinkling of pyrite. "Royal blue" is a descriptive term for fine material. As the color becomes lighter (indicative of more calcite) the value of lapis lazuli drops, visible calcite is a definite detriment. Quality of cutting is also a value consideration.

 

The finest quality is from Afghanistan, while Chilean lapis lazuli tends to have large amounts of calcite.

 

 


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Moonstone

Colors: Pastel tints of all colors

Refractive Index: l.5l - l.59

Durability: Not very hard but they are reasonably tough

S.G.: 2.54 - 2.70

Material: Feldspar

Treatment: None known

Hardness: 6 - 6.5

Availability: Supply meets present demand

Localities: India, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, Oregon

Price: Mostly low, some moderate exceptions

Common Shapes: Cabochons: rounds and ovals

 

Interesting Facts

Popular with the Romans, who thought it was formed out of moonlight, and in India, where it is considered a sacred stone, moonstone is the most valuable variety of feldspar with an iridescent sheen known as adularescence.

 

A symbol of the Third Eye, moonstone is said to balance yin/yang, protect against epilepsy and sun stroke, cure headaches and nose bleeds, and ensure a high yield in crops. It can help men open their feminine emotional aspects and cool a fever if applied to both temples.

 

During the full moon, men can use it to predict the future by placing it in their mouths but women should avoid it at this time and also when menstruating.

 

A favorite of Art Nouveau jewelers, moonstone is a highly prized gift for lovers as it arouses tender passion. It also accentuates the wearer’s nature, whether positive or negative.

 

 

Characteristics

 

Moonstone’s characteristic shimmer is known as schiller or adularescence, and is caused by the intergrowth of two different types of feldspar with different refractive indexes. Moonstones are usually cut in a smooth-domed cabochon shape to maximize this

effect.

 

Moonstones come in a variety of colors, ranging from colorless to gray, brown, yellow, green, or pink. Clarity ranges from transparent to translucent.

 

Sometimes moonstone will have an eye as well as a sheen. A related variety of labradorite feldspar is known as rainbow moonstone. Its sheen exhibits a variety of rainbow hues.

 

 

Evaluation

The best moonstone has a blue sheen, perfect clarity, and a colorless body color. Fine moonstone is quite rare and becoming rarer. It is mined in Sri Lanka and Southern India. The rainbow variety can also be found in Madagascar.

 

Blue flash and rainbow moonstones have recently become very popular. Once considered plentiful, they are now rather scarce due to increased demand and prices have risen.

 

Moonstones are often carved into mini art works with "man in the moon" faces popular. The cost of carvings may fall into the moderate category if they are very unusual.

 

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Opal

Colors: Colorless, white, yellow, orange, red, green, blue, brown, gray & black

Refractive Index:l.37 - l.47

Durability:Very fragile

S.G.: l.42 - 2.25

Material: Silicon dioxide, SiO2, & water

Treatment: Occasionally stabilized, dyed, oiled & coated

Hardness: 5.5 - 6.5

Availability: Adequate supply

Localities: Australia, Brazil, Mexico, Honduras, Czechoslovakia, Nevada & recently discovered in central Wyoming

Price: Low to expensive

Common Shapes: Opals with play of color (precious opal) are cut into cabochons of any shape. Fire opals without play of color (common opal) are faceted into various shape

 

Interesting Facts

With “the fire of the carbuncle, the brilliant purple of the amethyst and the sea green color of the emerald, all shining together in incredible union” opal clearly impressed Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), Roman historian and author of the world’s first encyclopedia. The Romans had been wearing opals for centuries and considered them a symbol of hope and purity while for the early Greeks they embodied the powers of foresight and prophecy. The more fancifully minded Arabs thought that opals must have fallen from heaven in flashes of lightning thus achieving their unique play of color or “opalescence”.

 

Amazingly this opalescence is a result of the 5-10% of water trapped inside the stone in which rows and rows of tiny spheres of silicon dioxide are arranged, diffracting light in a unique fashion.

 

Opal has also featured in literature with Shakespeare referring to it in Twelfth Night as “the queen of gems”. A real queen had to intervene in the near destruction of the 19th entury opal market when Sir Walter Scott’s Anne of Geierstein started a superstition that opals were bad luck for people not born in October. The novel’s heroine owned an opal that burned fiery red when she was angry and turned ashen gray upon her death. Queen Victoria finally dispelled the curse by giving opal jewelry as gifts at a royal wedding.

 

Opal and tourmaline are the official stones for those born in October, and famous French actress Sarah Bernhardt rarely left the house unless adorned with her opalescent birthstone.

 

 

Characteristics

The physical structure of opal is unique. Tiny spheres of silicon dioxide form a pyramid shaped grid interspersed with water. Tiny natural faults in this grid cause the characteristic

“play of color”. The effect is similar to the rainbow colors displayed on a soap bubble, only much more dramatic.

 

Opals vary widely in body color, with white the most common. Black is considered the most valuable as it enhances and accentuates the play of color. Fire opal (yellow, orange or

red) is often faceted and can resemble ruby. Green and blue opals are rare.

 

Opal is sometimes cut with pieces of matrix - the host rock. This strengthens the opal and can also lend a more interesting appearance. The finest examples are Boulder Opal, which sometimes have an undulating surface of “hills” and “valleys”. Their unusual shapes and ironstone inclusions make Boulders popular with progressive, modern designers and wearers.

 

As opal is relatively soft and fragile it is often made into doublets or triplets - backed with plain black opal and fronted with clear quartz. These are ideal for rings or any piece that is likely to be receiving rough treatment.

 

 

Evaluation

Combining body color and play of color we are faced with infinite possibilities, so pricing is complex.Size is also a factor with the carat price for larger stones accelerating accordingly. The intensity of the play of color and the extent to which it covers the opal’s surface also count.

 

Of all the opal taken out of the ground, 95% is valueless “potch” and 95% of the remainder is low quality. Only a mere 0.25% ever makes it to market.

 

 


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Pearl

Colors: White, cream, gray, black, pink, orange and violet tints, pink & green overtones plus dyed colors

Refractive Index: 1.53 - 1.69

Durability: Fragile

S.G.: 2.68 - 2.85

Material: Nacre

Treatment: Bees wax polish, bleaching, dyeing and irradiation

Hardness: 2.5 - 4.5

Availability: Natural pearls: very rare; cultured pearls: supply meets demand

Localities: Australia, China, Japan, Mexico, Persian Gulf, Tahiti & USA

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Round, pear, egg, teardrop, baroque, half, three-quarter, blister & more

 

Interesting Facts

Aphrodite’s tears of joy, dew drops filled with moonlight, Krishna’s wedding gift to his daughter, Cleopatra’s love potion. The legends abound but one fact is undeniable, pearls are the oldest known gem, and for centuries were considered the most valuable. So valuable that the Roman General Vitellius allegedly financed an entire military campaign with just one of his mother’s pearl earrings.

 

The Romans were particularly enamored of this gem of the sea and Rome's pearl craze reached its zenith during the first century BC when upper class Roman women (the lower ranks were forbidden from wearing them) wore their pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening. They also upholstered couches with pearls and sewed so many into their gowns that they actually walked on their pearl-encrusted hems. The famously excessive Emperor Caligula, having made his beloved horse a consul, decorated it with a pearl necklace.

 

The first known source of pearls was the Persian Gulf and the ancients of the area believed that pearls were a symbol of the moon and had magical powers. Indeed, the oldest known pearl jewelry is a necklace found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who

died in 520 BC.

 

The earliest written record of their value is in the Shu King, a 23rd-century BC Chinese book in which the scribe sniffs that a lesser king sent tribute of “strings of pearls not quite round”. The Chinese also used pearls in medicinal ways to cure eye ailments, heart trouble, indigestion, fever and bleeding. To this day pearl powder is still popular in China as a skin whitener and cosmetic. In India, pearls were believed to give peace of mind and strength of body and soul. Europeans thought that swallowing whole or powdered pearls cured matters of the mind and heart, and strengthened nerves.

 

Both the Incas and Aztecs believed that pearls had been imbued with mystical properties for health, wisdom and prophecy. While the North American Indians were stringing fres water pearls of the Mississippi River into necklaces, sewing them onto headdresses and setting them into copper ornaments.

 

The Koran states that a good Muslim, upon entering the Kingdom of Heaven, “is crowned with pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden pearls”.

 

During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens of nobility cherished delicate pearl necklaces, gallant knights often wore pearls onto the battlefield. They believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.

 

While Queen Isabella had to hock her impressive collection of jewelry to fund Christopher Columbus’ expedition to discover the new world, the investment paid off as the discovery of pearls in Central American waters added to the wealth of Spain. The flood of American pearls on to the European market earned the newly discovered continent the nickname “Land of Pearls”. Unfortunately, greed and lust for the sea gems resulted in the depletion of virtually all the American pearl oyster populations by the 17th Century.

 

Until the early 1900's, natural pearls were accessible to only the rich and famous. In 1916, famed French jeweler Jacques Cartier bought his landmark store on New York's Fifth Avenue by trading two pearl necklaces for the valuable property.

 

But then in 1919, the son of a Japanese noodle maker perfected and patented a method of cultivating pearls and production of the gems of the sea turned from a treasure hunt into an industry.

 

Characteristics

A natural pearl (sometimes called an Oriental pearl) forms when an irritant works its way into a particular species of mollusk that is actually closer to a scallop than an oyster. As a defense mechanism, the mollusk secretes a fluid to coat the irritant. Layer upon layer of this coating (known as nacre) is deposited on the irritant until a lustrous pearl is formed.

 

A cultured pearl undergoes the same process. The only difference being that the irritant is a surgically implanted mother-of-pearl bead or nuclei. The best nucleus comes from a Mississippi mussel that only lives in that famed waterway. The core is, therefore, much larger than in a natural pearl. As long as there are enough layers of nacre to result in a beautiful, gem-quality pearl, the size of the nucleus is of little importance to beauty or durability.

 

Pearls have long been considered ideal wedding gifts because they symbolize purity and innocence. In the Hindu religion, the presentation of an un-drilled pearl and its piercing has formed part of the marriage ceremony. While in the western hemisphere pearls are the recommended gift for couples celebrating their third and 30th wedding anniversaries.

 

Evaluation

 

Almost every pearl on the market these days is cultured. It’s only at antique auctions that you’re likely to come across “naturals”. Cultured pearls are still “real” pearls they’ve simply had a helping hand from mankind.

 

Fakes are usually made from ground fish scales and can be easily detected with the simple tooth test. Gently scrape the pearls along the ridges of your top teeth. If it glides easily, it’s fake. If you feel a slight gritty abrasiveness, it’s most likely cultured or natural.

 

Saltwater pearls are usually more expensive than freshwater with Akoya Japanese pearls being the most popular. South Sea pearls are typically much larger than Akoyas, and if you’re buying black then they probably come from Tahiti.

 

Freshwater pearls are available in a far wider color range than saltwater, including purple, violet, orange, blue and gray. They are cheaper to produce as each mollusk can yield up to 30 pearls per harvest! American freshwaters are allowed to mature for much longer than all other cultured pearls (up to 5 years, compared to 1 year for most others) resulting in a thicker nacre which gives American pearls an unusually high luster and orient (the iridescence from the light reflected from the inside of the pearl).

 

White-pink pearls with orient attain the highest prices but with the huge variety of colors available today it’s best to choose that which compliments your skin tone and hair color.

 

Be sure to check pearls under several different light sources, against a dark background. Roll the pearls around to make sure that the luster is uniform throughout. Minor blemishes may be buffed or washed away. Pearls are very porous and will soak up just about any substance they come in contact with, especially perfume and cosmetics.


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Peridot

Colors: Yellowish-green to olive-green to brown

Refractive Index: 1.65 - 1.69

Durability: Fragile

S.G.: 3.31 - 3.48

Material: Olivine, which is made up of forsterite (90%) and fayalite

Treatment: Low quality peridot is occasionally treated with oil, wax or resins

Hardness: 6.5 - 7

Availability: Under 5 carats abundant. Larger sizes rare

Localities: Australia, Brazil, Burma, Congo, Egypt, Mexico, Norway, Pakistan, USA (Arizona & Hawaii), & meteorites

Price: Low to moderate

Common Shapes: All possible shapes in small faceted material

 

Interesting Facts

Known by the ancient Egyptians as the “gem of the sun,” peridot has enjoyed a mystical reputation with its alleged powers including: warding off anxiety, enhancement of speech articulation, and success in relationships and marriage.

 

Common in early Greek and Roman jewelry, peridot has been popular since 1500 BC when the Egyptians started mining it on Zeberget, later known as St. John’s Island, about 50 miles off the Egyptian coast in the Red Sea. It was a dangerous business back then as the island was infested with poisonous serpents, which a later Pharaoh had driven into the sea.

 

Peridot mining was traditionally done at night when the stone’s natural glow is easier to see, the ancient Egyptians even believed that peridot became invisible under the sun’s rays.

 

Hawaiian natives believe peridot is the goddess Pele's tears, while biblical references to the stone include the high priest's breastplate – studded with a stone for each of the twelve tribes of Israel, one being peridot. Cleopatra reportedly had a fine collection of “emerald” jewelry, which was really peridot but it was the Ottoman Sultans who gathered the largest collection during their 600-year reign from 1300-1918.

 

Powdered peridot has been used to cure asthma and a peridot placed under the tongue of someone in the grip of a fever will lessen their thirst. Legend has it that drinking from a peridot goblet can increase the potency of medicines.

 

Pirate’s believed peridot had the power to drive away evil spirits (and the night’s terrors), especially if set in gold. But as protection from evil spirits it must be pierced, strung on donkey hair and worn on the left arm.

 

Possibly the most unusual peridot is that which comes from meteorites called pallasites. Some have even been facetted and set in jewelry, the only extraterrestrial gemstones known to man.

 

Characteristics

Peridot ranges in color from light yellow-green to the intense bright green of new grass to olive. Because of the way peridot splits and bends the rays of light passing through it, it has a velvety, "sleepy" appearance - a shining rich glow, and a slightly greasy luster.

 

Evaluation

The purer green a peridot is, the higher the value. Any tinge of brown greatly diminishes the price as well as visible flaws.

 

In 1994, an exciting new deposit of peridot was discovered in Pakistan, and these stones are among the finest ever seen. The new mine is located 15,000 feet above sea level in the Nanga Parbat region in the far west of the Himalayan Mountains in the Pakistani part of Kashmir. Beautiful large crystals of peridot were found, some that cut magnificent large gemstones. One stone was more than 300 carats! This new discovery, combined with fashion's passion for lime green, has revived interest in peridot and increased the popularity of this gemstone.


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Rubies

Colors: Reds

Refractive Index: 1.76 - 1.78

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.9 – 4.1

Material: Corundum

Treatment: Assume heating

Hardness: 9

Availability: Fine rubies up to five carats

Localities: Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Africa & Vietnam

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Ovals, cushions, pear, emerald cuts & others

 

Interesting Facts

The earliest record for the mining of rubies goes back to more than 2,500 years ago in Sri Lanka. Historically, many believe that mystical powers lie within this intensely colored red stone. When inserted beneath the skin, the ancient Burmese believe that the stone generates a mystical force, which protects the wearer from accidents and attack. In the ancient world, many believed rubies to contain prophetic powers, enabling wearers to predict their future based on the color changes of their stone. The ancient Hindus enchanted by the color of rubies considered them to be “Ratnaraj” or the “King of Precious Stones”. The modern word ruby is derived from the ancient Latin phrase “Rubeus”.

 

Today, Burma is the world’s largest provider of high quality rubies. Many consider Burmese rubies from the Mogok Valley to be the world’s finest. Vietnam, Kenya, Tanzania and Sri Lanka are some of the other providers of this truly enchanting gemstone. Thailand, with large deposits near the Cambodian border, was previously the world’s largest provider of rubies, but due to environmental regulations, the mining of rubies has been greatly reduced.

 

Characteristics

Rubies and sapphires are closely related, having corundum as their base mineral. The difference in color occurs because of the different trace minerals contained within each gemstone. Thai rubies tend to have a darker color and less intensity than Burmese rubies, which are known for their high quality and high price range; however, very fine rubies can be found in Thailand at very affordable prices. African rubies tend to have heavy inclusions, but beautiful stones with fine clarity can be found, usually in the higher price range.

 

Rubies come in many different shapes and sizes, providing great variety to gemstone lovers. With hardness just below that of diamonds, rubies are one of the toughest gemstones, and with no cleavage, breakage rarely occurs.

 

Microscopic inclusions, sometimes called “silk”, are normal characteristic of rubies. However, heating tends to dissolve these inclusions. The existence of inclusions provides traces to the rubies’ origin and can be used to separate natural from synthetic stones. The inclusions within these gemstones may also be evidence that a ruby has not been heat-treated. Inclusions do not effect the value of the stone as long as the brilliance of the gemstone is maintained and are not visible to the naked eye.

Evaluation

Intensity and uniformity of the red color are the factors used to determine the price of rubies. Highly valued rubies are those with intense medium red and uniformed color. Intense pink rubies can be highly appraised as well, if they are clear and beautifully cut.

 

The evaluation of rubies should be done under different light settings. When viewed under very strong light, rubies may show very intense color; however, when viewed under normal lighting, the gemstone may appear less intense. Light is therefore a very important factor in determining the true color of rubies.

 

To help assess their symmetry, rubies must be judged from their face up position and their overall beauty should always be taken into consideration.

 


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Sapphires

All Colors

Refractive Index: 1.76 - 1.78

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.9 - 4.1

Material: Corundum

Treatment: Assume heating

Hardness: 9

Availability: Fine sapphires up to ten carats Localities: Australia, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Tanzania & Montana

Price: Low to very expensive

Common Shapes: Ovals, cushions, pear, emerald cuts & others

 

Interesting Facts

The island of Serendib (present day Sri Lanka) holds one of the earliest records for the mining of sapphires. Ancient people believed that the power of wisdom is contained within this precious gemstone. They believed that when the wearer of a sapphire faces challenging obstacles, the stone’s power enables them to find the correct solution. The modern word sapphire is derived from the ancient Latin phrase “Sapphirus”.

 

Sapphires come in all spectrums of color, except for red. Often when people refer to sapphires, they mean blue sapphires. Other color sapphires are referred to as fancy sapphires.

 

Australia and Africa are the world’s largest suppliers of blue sapphires. Sri Lanka also provides a large portion of world’s supply of blue sapphires. Gemstones from this island are often called “Ceylon” sapphires, which was the name of the island before it was changed to Sri Lanka. Pailin, Cambodia, is another source of exceptional blue sapphires. Burma is also known for their top quality supply of this gemstone.

 

Sri Lanka is the most famous mining area for fancy sapphires, for it is where “Padparadscha” sapphires can be found. Padparadscha is a native phrase, meaning the “lotus blossom” and represents the pink-orange to red-orange color of the gemstone. Padparadscha sapphires are the most expensive of all fancy sapphires. In recent years, Madagascar has emerged as a major source for fancy sapphires.

 

Characteristics

Common Characteristics -Similar to rubies, sapphires come in many different shapes and sizes, providing great variety to gemstone lovers. With hardness just below that of diamonds, sapphires are one of the toughest gemstones, and with no cleavage, breakage rarely occurs.

 

Blue Sapphires

Intense medium dark blue is the most sought after color for blue sapphires. However, very fine sapphires are extremely rare. Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Burma produce very fine pure blue sapphires, although Cambodian sapphires are sometimes slightly dark. Australian sapphires tend to have green overtones and concentric hexagonal bands.

 

Fancy Sapphires

Found in Sri Lanka, very intense orange-pinks (Padparadscha) are the most sought after color of fancy sapphires. A variety of yellow and gold sapphires are also available in the world market, with Australia, Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Tanzania major sources of supply. Green sapphires are found in Australia and Thailand. The shade of green tends to be close to the color of an army uniform, but exceptional stones do exist. Violet sapphires tend to have color change as a common characteristic, especially when viewed under daylight. However, due to their inability to be classified as either ruby or blue sapphires, violet sapphires’ price usually falls into the lower range.

 

Star Sapphire.

Star sapphires are very interesting, having a six-rayed star in the middle of the stone. This asterism occurs when the titanium inclusions within the stone form into the shape of a star. Star sapphires come in all shapes and sizes, but black star sapphires are the most common.

 

Evaluation

Blue Sapphires

Intensity, uniformity and purity of color are the most important considerations when making a decision about the purchase of a blue sapphire. Fine blue sapphires should not contain any overtones or secondary colors, for this will lessen the beauty of this precious gemstone. As the overall beauty of the stone will depend on the cutting, this characteristic must always be taken into consideration. Dark blue sapphires will appear black under low light settings, while fine blue sapphires will maintain their color in any light setting.

 

Fancy Sapphires

For fancy sapphires, the wearer’s preference is the most important determinant, since these gemstones come in many different shapes, colors and sizes. Again, intensity, uniformity and purity of color are the most important factors. Once again, cutting of fancy sapphires will also be another important evaluation factor.

 

Star Sapphires

The concentration of color is the most important factor for judging the beauty of these stones. The shape of the star must be sharp and in the center of the stone in order to accentuate the beauty of this unique type of sapphires. A star sapphires’ translucency can never be neglected, for greater translucency relates to a higher value. The star of natural star sapphire can be viewed when a specific light source is pinpointed onto the stone.

 


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Spinel

Colors: Red, pink, orange, blue, violet, golden yellow & gray

Refractive Index: 1.71 - 1.72

Durability: Tough

S.G.: 3.57 - 3.9

Material: Spinel

Treatment: None

Hardness: 8

Availability: Pastels common, intense colors maybe hard to find, most stones under 5 carats

Localities: Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka, India & Russia

Price: Moderate to expensive

Common Shapes: Mostly ovals, cushions & rounds

 

Interesting Facts

Throughout history, the red brilliance of spinel has led to great confusion, causing many to mistakenly identify this astonishing gemstone for ruby. In fact, the world’s most famous “rubies” are actually spinels. For example, the 170-carat Black Prince’s Ruby on the British Imperial State Crown and the 352-carat Timur Ruby have been authenticated as spinels by leading gemologists. The source of confusion stemmed not only from color similarities, but is also attributed to the close proximity of their deposits. Burma, identifying the variety in 1587, was the first to distinguish spinels as a distinctive gemstone type. At this time other countries still referred to spinels as “Balas Ruby”.

 

Exceptional stones are found on the island of Sri Lanka and in Russia. However, most of the finest spinels in currently available are mined in Burma.

 

Characteristics

Spinels come in many different color varieties, with “hot” colors, such as red, orange and vibrant pink, being the most expensive. Exceptional blue stones, also known as cobalt spinels, which resemble fine sapphires, have been discovered in Sri Lanka and command very high prices. Occasionally, large spinels with sizes greater than 5 carats are found; however, most stones in the market today are less than 5 carats in weight.

Having the hardness of 8 on the Moh’s scale, with no cleavage spinels are excellent for jewelry settings.

 

Evaluation

When evaluating the value of spinels, color intensity is the most important consideration. The gemstone should be intensely colored without any secondary brown tones. Clarity is also an important evaluating factor, with eye clean spinels being highly valued.

 

Cutting is very important, as well cut stones can be quite spectacular. Having a high refractive index, the brilliance of a well-cut spinel is breath takin

 


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Tanzanite

Colors: Blue to violet

Refractive Index: 1.69 - 1.70

Durability: Fragile

S.G.: 3.20 – 3.40

Material: Zoisite

Treatment: Assume heating

Hardness: 6 – 7

Availability: Supply meets demand

Localities: Tanzania

Price: Moderate to expensive

Common Shapes: Oval, cushion & fancy shapes available

 

Interesting Facts

The showcase of this newly discovered gemstone by Tiffany & Co. in 1967 captured the world’s attention. It is believed that the Masai herders were the first people to discover this gemstone. According to popular myth, a lightning strike near the Merelani hills set surrounding grasslands on fire. When the Masai herders return to the area with their livestock, magical blue stones appeared on the ground. When a Portuguese geologist, named DeSouza, traveled to this area in Tanzania, he noticed this magnificent blue stone and assisted Tiffany & Co. in introducing this exciting discovery to the world.

 

With vast deposits in the northern part of the country near the Merelani hills, Tanzania is the only commercial source of tanzanite. Very small deposits have been found in Kenya, but they were not large enough for commercial purposes.

 

Characteristics

When heated to 600 degrees Celsius, greenish to brownish zoisite undertakes an incredible metamorphosis, resulting in the creation of this vibrant blue to blue violet gemstone, tanzanite. With hardness between 6 and 7 on the Moh’s scale, tanzanite is quite fragile, and for this reason, ultrasonic should never be used to clean this precious stone.

 

In its early discovery, tanzanite was only available in small stones; however, today, larger stones have been made available, providing greater variety to the gemstone market.

 

Evaluation

The lighting condition is the most critical factor when evaluating the value of this gemstone. Tanzanite will display the most blue under daylight, while the violet shade will be more apparent under incandescent light. The stone which commands the highest value is generally the one which displays minimal violet, even when it is viewed under incandescent light.

 

It is common to find flawless tanzanite crystals; therefore, the stone should not contain too many inclusions.


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Topaz

Colors:

Yellow, orange, pink, blue, brown, red & colorless

Refractive Index: 1.60 – 1.64

Durability: Fragile, has cleavage

S.G.: 3.50 – 3.57

Material: Silicate

Treatment: Irradiation and heating of some colors

Hardness: 8

Availability: Some color are abundant, red is very rare

Localities: Brazil, Pakistan, Mexico & Nigeria

Price: Low to expensive

Common Shapes: Blue in all shapes; other colors in ovals, cushions & emerald cuts

 

Interesting Facts

The utilization of topaz goes back to the days of the Ancient Egyptian Empire. Its popularity grew tremendously during the Middle Ages, where people believe topaz to have the power to strengthen the mind. Many astonishing pieces of jewelry were created with this sparkling gemstone. In the past, many refer to topaz as a yellow to orange gemstone, but due to the large supply of blue topaz in the world market today, many are led to believe that topaz is exclusively a blue gemstone. The modern word topaz is derived from the Sanskrit word “tapas”.

 

The world’s largest supplier of topaz is Brazil. However, Pakistan and Russia are now emerging as the new sources for topaz supply.

 

Characteristics

Topaz comes in a variety of shapes, colors and sizes. Its brilliance and clarity will be able to attract the attention of those who see this gem. With the hardness of 8 on the Moh’s scale, topaz is very difficult to scratch; however, the gems maybe brittle.

 

Evaluation

Red and intense pink are the most rare and most desirable colors for topaz. A gem with these colors will command a relatively high price. Bright orange color topaz, also known as the imperial topaz, falls into the moderate price range and are easier to find. Blue Topaz, having a low to moderate price range, is very popular, because a variety of shades, sizes and shapes are available.

 

The true determinant for the evaluation of this precious stone will be the wearer’s preference. The intensity of color and the clarity of the stone will contribute to the value of topaz as well, and should never be neglected.

 

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Tourmaline

Colors: All colors

Refractive Index: 1.62 -1.64

Durability: Fairly Tough

S.G.: 3.01 - 3.21

Material: Aluminum & boron silicate

Treatment: Heating for some colors

Hardness: 7 - 7.5

Availability: Supply meets demand

Localities: Brazil, Madagascar,Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Namibia, Sri Lanka & California

Price: Low to expensive

Common Shapes: Emerald cuts, cushions, ovals & some fancy shapes

 

Interesting Facts

As it is found in all spectrums of color, Tourmalines are often described as the “chameleon gemstone”. It is not surprising to find a fine tourmaline that mirrors the exact semblance of other gemstones, such as emerald, ruby and sapphire. Some tourmaline crystals may even appear as crystallized rainbows with several bands of color, ranging from the most brilliant red to the deepest blue. Many refer to tourmaline as the “muses’ stone”, for they believed that its imaginative colors contain inspirational powers which enable the mind of its beholder to bring forth illimitable vision and creativity.

 

During the Manchu Dynasty in China, members of the Mandarin class wore round buttons made of red tourmaline, distinguishing themselves from other classes of citizens. Empress Tzu Hsi was so fascinated by tourmaline’s beauty and color that she had over one ton of this precious gemstone in her royal collection.

 

The name tourmaline is believed to have derived from the Sinhalese word, “turmali”, meaning mixed”.

 

Characteristics

Tourmaline comes in all spectrums of color, the most common being green and pink. The red variety is often referred to as “rubellite”, as its vibrant red color often resembles that of the finest rubies. A rare green chrome variety of tourmaline found in Tanzania is also available, but in small quantities. An extremely rare variety is the Paraiba tourmaline. Found in Brazil, this gemstone exhibits very intense neon-like blue and blue green colors. Its color is often comparable to the spectacular blue of the finest sapphires. Some tourmaline crystals may contain two or more distinctive colors and are commonly known as bi-color, tri-color or parti-color tourmalines.

 

Tourmaline is available in all sizes ranging from small to over 100 carats; however, stones of a rare color are often found in smaller sizes. For example is extremely uncommon to find fine rubellites over 20 carats in weight.

 

Some color varieties of tourmaline are more included than others. For example it is common to find bi-color and multi-colors stones with visible inclusions.

 

Evaluation

Similar to the evaluation of other precious stones, the intensity of color and the clarity of the gemstone are the most important considerations. Green chrome and Paraiba tourmalines are the most expensive color varieties, due to their spectacular beauty and rarity. Fine rubellites and multi-color stones will command moderate to high prices depending on the intensity of their color and the existence of eye visible inclusions.


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Zircon

Colors: Blue, green, yellow, orange, brown, red & colorless

Refractive Index: 1.78 - 1.94

Durability: Fragile

S.G.: 3.95 - 4.8

Material: Zirconium Silicate

Treatment: Heating for some colors

Hardness: 6.5 – 7.5

Availability: Small blue stones can be found; others are rare

Localities: Cambodia, Burma, Thailand & Sri Lanka

Price: Low to moderate

Common Shapes: Mostly rounds & ovals for best brilliance

Interesting Facts

For many centuries, the brilliance of zircon has captured the hearts of those who set their eyes on this magnificent gemstone. Zircon’s popularity began to grow in the sixth century, when Italian artisans featured the stone in jewelry designs. During the Ages, zircon was believed to contain remedial power, protecting the

wearer from diseases and banishing insomnia. The name “zircon” is believed to have derived from the Arabic words, “zar”, meaning gold, and “gun”, meaning color.

 

Thailand and Cambodia are the world’s major suppliers of zircon with large deposits near the border of the two countries. Vietnam, Burma, Sri Lanka and Africa also

provide a large supply of this marvelous gemstone to the world market.

 

Characteristics

There are three natural types of zircons: low, medium and high. The variance is due mainly to the differences in the specific gravity and refractive index.

 

Having the highest refractive index among any natural gemstones, with the exception of diamonds, the brilliance of high zircon is second to none. As temperature rises the refractive index of zircon also increases, making the gemstone even more spectacular. Despite its brilliance, Zircon is quite brittle and can easily be chipped or scratched.

 

A very unique characteristic of zircon is that they are birefringence, meaning that light splits into two rays as it passes through the stone. As a result, the back facets appear as double images.

Zircons are often blue or colorless. Other color varieties, such as yellow, orange, green, brown and red, do exist, but they are extremely rare.

 

Evaluation

The intensity of color and the clarity of the stone are the most important criteria when evaluating zircon. The presence of visible flaws greatly diminishes the value of this stone. Deep blue and natural red zircons are the most sought after varieties. Intense blue, orange and red zircons over 3 carats in size fall into the moderate price range.

Smaller stones with ordinary colors will fall into the lower price range.


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